Since moving to Guanajuato, Mexico, we've lived in
four different houses. The first was in a barrio called Puquero. The
other three have been in the barrio called Pastita. Without challenge,
Pastita has been the best barrio in which to live because of the
irrepressible noise factor endemic to Puquero. If you ever find
yourself in the position to live in Guanajuato, for any reason, do not
live in Puquero. It is loud enough to wake the dead, at all hours of
the night, and it never stops. Ever!
Pastita has been ok as far
as the noise factor goes. You can hear from here the noise they make in
barrios like, well, Puquero. But, it is the canyon effect in full swing
and not so much direct noise. This entire city is built in a ravine or
canyon so when someone has a party using stereo speakers the size of a
small SUV (this, by the way, is not an exaggeration), then you will be
able to hear it from where we presently are living.
The first
house in Pastita was very nice. This lady, the bruja of Guanajuato, put
a lot of money into a series of duplexes and houses that come with
almost any convenience you can imagine. They had phones and some even
had washers. The problem with this location is that it was on top of a
small mountain, making it necessary to have climbing gear to traverse
it if you resorted to walking to and from downtown. I didn't mind this
so much but there was no oxygen station halfway up the monster climb,
making it hard on me because of my asthma.
Another "treat" in
these houses was the landlady's dog (it lived on the properties). This
animal, which we loved, loved coming into our house to express his
affection by making like a water sprinkler over everything in the
place. He also could conceivably mistake your leg for a fire hydrant.
He was very charming.
Also, this landlady thought it appropriate
to come into your house, when you weren't there, and have a little look
around. She would also help herself to spare money you might have lying
around the house. She would charge gringos, and I mean by that
AMERICANS, two to three times what she would charge a Mexican for her
houses. We found this out because we can speak Spanish and we asked her
Mexican tenants what they were paying for a house. One Mexican lady was
paying $400.00 USD for a studio apartment and the lady turned around
and charged some American friends of ours $800.00 for the same place.
The woman had no scruples.
A pair of rare Mexican gems owns the
new place we live in now. Not only are they trustworthy but also, to
get us into one of their places, they actually lowered the rent for us
since we are reliable gringos. She even arranged to have a phone put
into the house so we would rent it. We needed it for an Internet
connection, something we need for our writing, which pays the rent. I
love this woman and her husband and would love for them to adopt us so
we could come to their house for birthdays, holidays, and maybe Sunday
dinner.
The only kink in this new house is this: The landlady's
husband, a university-educated man, used to operate his international
insurance agency in this house more than fifteen years ago. Once he
built his new facility, which is just one door down from us and clearly
marked as his insurance agency with a huge sign, they had this old
place converted into a small casita. We have all we need here and
personally I love it though I think my wife could do with another
location.
This little abode of ours sits on a dead-end street and
I mean literally on the street. All the other houses on the block are
elevated from the street level and hidden behind locked gates. Ours,
however, since it was an office, sits on the street, no gate, no
elevation, just street level.
We can't be in the house with our
windows open because of its location. With a dentist's office and an
insurance agency on the same street, the cars come by and idle right in
front of our house, filling it with exhaust fumes. Though this can
actually be dealt with (I reach out the living room or bedroom window
and knock on the car window and we all have a chat. They then move the
cars or turn off the engine.). What cannot be dealt with is that no one
who apparently has business with the dentist, who is right across the
alley from our house, or the former occupant of our house, the
landlady's insurance-selling husband, seems to be able to read the
signs that clearly and decidedly delineate where their offices are
located.
If we sit with the windows open, people will actually
lean into our screen-less windows, yank back the curtains, and ask to
speak with the insurance man. Or, they will, as happened to my wife,
yank back the curtain to discover her sprawled over a chair reading,
and ask to have a toothache attended to. Now, if it's not the dentist
(one guy came at 11:00 p.m. one evening asking me to pull his tooth) or
the insurance agency they are seeking, they will yank back the curtain
and ask to use our bathroom and even if they could have a bite of what
we are eating at our dining room table. (Rarely does anyone in
Guanajuato have windows with screens.)
I swear the following is true:
Once
at 8:30 a.m., while still in bed, someone came pounding at the door
rather frantically. I stumbled to the door in my nightclothes. I threw
on a pair of shorts but was wearing one of my favorite, partially
destroyed pocket tee shirts. The pocket had long ago torn off,
revealing a huge gap directly over my left hairy and pendulous
man-booby. I love that shirt but it has mysteriously disappeared.
Anyway,
I opened the curtain over the door to see two young, well-dressed
Mexican college boys with folders in their hands. I unlocked and opened
the door, quite out of my mind, and stood in front of them with half of
my naked chest showing, in dirty shorts, and in my stocking feet. They
promptly thrust their folders, which contained their resumes, and
announced they were here to apply for the job. Before I could respond
in my just awake-from-the-dead stupor, some young lady pranced up to
me, dressed to kill, and also thrust her resume into my face and
unloaded the same I-am-here-for-the-job proclamation.
I was speechless.
Surely, I was still in bed and was dreaming this!
Did
they really think I was a businessman or professional of any sort
standing there with my wooly man-breast swaying in the wind, my
grease-laden hair standing straight up like Don King's, and unable to
speak Spanish much less English, in my sleepy torpor? I think all I
could do was growl at them. I know I must have looked like a drooling
stroke victim or, at the very least, someone who had really bad
personal hygiene issues, and yet—mark this—they handed me their resumes
and announced their intentions.
What were they thinking? I had to
have looked liked someone who slept under bridges and went to work each
day picking through trash cans in bus stations and there they were
standing there making their purpose clear they wanted to come to work
for me. Only in Mexico!
To this day I do not recall exactly what
I said to them, all three of them, nor what came of them. When I
relayed this to my landlady, and after she regained consciousness from
passing out from hysterical laughter (I can be funny at times, even in
Spanish), told me that her hubby was holding interviews for some
position in the insurance agency that used to be in the house I live in
and which is right around the corner from us.
Maybe the wife is correct and another location is in order.
But, would it be as much
fun?
Doug
Bower is a freelance writer and book author. His most recent writing
credits include The Atlanta Journal-Constitution, The Houston
Chronicle, The Philadelphia Inquirer, Associated Content, Transitions
Abroad, International Living, Escape Artist, and The Front Porch
Syndicate.